Trade, Temple and Court : Indian Textiles from the Tapi Collection
Authors: Ruth Barnes, Steven Cohen and Rosemary Crill. Mumbai, India Book House, 2002,
238 p., map, ills., ISBN 81-7508-354-9
Contents: Introduction. 1. Textiles for the trade with Asia/Ruth Barnes.
2. Textiles for the trade with Europe/Rosemary Crill. 3. Kashmir
shawls/Steven Cohen. 4. Courtly and urban textiles/Rosemary Crill and Steven
Cohen. 5. Pichhwais and religious hangings/Rosemary Crill. Notes. Structural
information. Glossary. Bibliography. Index.
"The Tapi collection brings together exceptional historical textiles that
were treasured, not only by courtiers and royalty in India, but in markets
spanning the globe from South-East Asia to Europe. Trade, Temple and Court:
Indian Textiles from the Tapi Collection introduces for the first time
several of the most outstanding textiles in the collection with detailed
text and over 240 lavish illustrations. Gatefold spreads enhance the
reader's understanding of even the larger textiles, while diagrams
elucidate intricate structural and design elements.
"The Tapi pieces encompass a range of materials and motifs, from 14 century
cloth woven and dyed or printed in Gujarat for maritime communities in
South-East Asia to the painted cottons and embroideries favoured by the
Western market and pictorial pichhwais specially designed for religious use.
The collection is particularly rich in rare early Kashmir shawls, as well as
in 17 century articles for urban use, such as floorspreads, sashes and
hangings. More recent examples of beautifully woven cotton jamdanis and silk
Baluchari pieces are also included.
"Noted textile scholars Ruth Barnes, Steven Cohen and Rosemary Crill have categorised the collection according to patronage and historical use, bringing fascinating insights to the realm of Indian textiles."